Moscow Journal #03: 2/5/2007

Beginning of the third journal entry.
Monday, February 5th - the first day of work! On Sunday, Alexey told me there were two options for getting to Krasnopresnenskaya Naberezhnaya Building Number 18 Floor 19 (also known as "the IBM building" from here on out): first, after walking to the closest metro station to the hotel (Prospekt Mira), I could take the Circle Line 3 stops to Krasnopresnenskaya Station and then look for the free shuttle bus for a 10 minute ride to the IBM building; second, I could take the metro one additional stop to Kievskaya Station and transfer to the Filyoskaya line and take the second train another 2 stops to the end of the line, at which point the IBM building would be just a few minutes by foot. Since I wasn't exactly sure where the shuttle bus would be outside the metro station, I opted for the second option.

After the morning ritual (tread mill or stationary bike followed by a sauna, cold rinse and then 20 minute rest of a chaise lounge, but you'll more about that in the next note), I got dressed for work. I knew to pack good boots and I also brought a few sweaters with me figuring I needed to prepare for a Russian winter; it might have defeated Napoleon and Hitler, but I was determined to survive. All geared up for the elements, I set off for the metro station. Within a few minutes, as the sweat started to drip down my back, it was apparent I was a bit over dressed for these conditions. Turns out, just like back home, Russia (well, at least Moscow) was in the middle of an abnormally warm winter. Alexey said it even rained on New Year's Day this year, and no one remembers that happening before - ever. Once I got to work, I checked the forecast for Poughkeepsie, and for my first few days in Russia, New York had colder temperatures than Moscow. But I jumped a little ahead of myself here. Back to the metro.

Years ago when I studied Russian, one of the aspects of the languages we learned was called "intonation constructions". In Russian, there are basically 5 patterns for the pitch within a sentence, and for the most part, they are very similar to patterns we use in English. For example, IK1 (intonation construction 1) is used for a simple statement of fact: I am going to the store. Russian is more constant in pitch than English, and you stay on one level until you get to the word you want to stress, and then you drop a bit and stay at that level for the remainder of the sentence. IK2 is used for questions that start with a question word: where are you going? You stress the question word a little more than in IK1 and then you go lower. IK3 is used for re-asking questions or expressing disbelief (similar to asking, "You are going WHERE?" in English). When listing items in a sentence, you can use IK4, which almost sounds a bit like the Valley Girls (I went to the STORE, and then met my FRIEND and then we went to the MALL), where you rise in pitch towards the end of each phrase. The last one IK5, is used almost exclusively by women, or maybe more accurately, more expressively by women, and it used to convey extreme emotions. You start low, then go as high as you can, and just kept going. The example I remember hearing when we learned these was someone commenting on the number of people in GUM (Government Universal Store - the huge shopping area on Red Square) around New Years, "In the store THERE WERE PEOPLE!"

For some reason, that always stuck in my head. Well, IK5 definitely came to mind when I had to transfer from the Circle Line to the Filyoskaya Line at Kievskaya Station. Three metro lines meet at that locale, and above ground is one of the 9 major inter-city train stations. As the people burst forth from my metro car, I joined the swarm of commuters in the rush to make the transfer between lines. It wasn't quite like being a sardine in a can as we were all moving; it was more like being a blood cell squeezing through a blocked artery. (OK, I do subscribe to the National Geographic, and yes, I did bring the February 2007 edition with me and indeed, I did just finish the title article "Healing the Heart".)

To complicate matters (at least in an American's eyes), the Russians, like most Europeans, don't really queue (line-up). As we bumped our away along, gently swaying from side to side in a shuffle, surging ever closer and closer to the escalator, people would swing along the outside of the mass and just squeeze their way into the pack. While there might not be rules about queueing up, once you step onto the escalator, you better stay to the right if you plan on standing (and allow those who want to walk to pass freely on the left-hand side). One of the few "rules" Russians willingly obey, and there are even escalator monitors, one at the top and one at the bottom of each long stretch, and their little booths contain multiple monitors for them to keep tabs of the people on the moving stairs. If a particular behavior needs correcting, they announce the infraction over the PA and remind the transgressor to conduct himself in a more appropriate manner.

Don't remember how long I was part of the mob (I think I was just so shocked, I completely lost track of time), but eventually I located the platform for my second train. Most of the trains in the system runs extremely frequently (every 2 minutes during rush hour and every 4 minutes off-peak), but this line is much less frequent as it is so short. According to the sign board, I had a 15 minute wait until my train arrived in the station. Retrieved the complimentary copy of The Moscow Times from my computer bag and started to catch up on the local and international news. A couple of minutes later, a train pulled into the station, and according to the board, it was bound for the other destination (this platform was the splitting point for a line that serves two different end points). However, I just caught over the PA the announcement that this train, contrary to what was posted on the board, was indeed bound for Mezhdynarodnaya - my destination! I quickly headed for the doors, just as the onboard taped announcement chimed out. "Watch out - the doors are closing! The next stop is Delovoi Tsenter. " Well, those doors close with some force, I can tell you! Didn't quite make it into the car by the time the doors slammed shut, and I got a bit pinched. Not quite the graceful entry into the train I had hoped for. Luckily someone inside the train helped pull open the door to let me in, and I must admit I was a bit afraid I was going to become a statistic of the Moscow Metro System!

Just two stops later, out of the train, up the escalator and onto the street. There was a sign indicating my street was just outside this door, but once I exited the metro station, there were no more signs. I had an address: 18, and I knew I was looking for a building that was at least 19 floors tall. However, surveying the surroundings, all the buildings in the immediate proximity were only 2 or 3 stories tall and all the taller buildings were under construction. A few blocks to the left (east) there appeared to be a building of sufficient height and fully built, so I made my way in that direction. Unfortunately, that building didn't have the right number. From here, I spied a few more possibilities now on my right (south from the metro), and off I went.
Along the way, I asked an old-man sweeping snow off the sidewalk in front on an office for directions, and he sent me along in the same direction. A couple of blocks away, I consulted with a policeman for further instructions. Turns out, I was headed in the wrong direction; instead of continuing straight, I needed to talk another right (now heading west from the metro). A few minutes later, I finally hit the river, which was a good sign as Naberezhnaya means river bank. As it turns out, from the metro, the IBM building is located behind two buildings that are under construction, and I made a huge circle in getting there.

IBM is not the only occupant of the building (actually, I don't think IBM even occupies the largest number of floors in the building as Proctor and Gamble has more entries on the directory board) and I had to get a building pass from the security desk in the lobby. The interesting thing about this building, and I've never seen this in any other building, was the method for separating the destinations for the elevators. While I've seen elevator banks segregated based on the floors they serve, they take that method one step further here. Once you get to the proper bank, you then have to select your target floor on a number pad outside the elevators. Then the pad tells you which of the 4 available elevators will take you to your floor, and on the way up, the buttons in the elevator don't work. This way you can get all the people headed for same floor (or limited number of floors) into one car, and the car makes fewer stops along the way. Quite innovative!
Up to floor 19, and luckily Alexey happened to step off one of the other elevators just about the same time. Since I did not have a valid IBM badge, yet, he let me into the IBM secured door, and into the clock room. I think all offices, museums, theatres, concert halls and most restaurants have a clock room. In most of them, it is just a place to shed your coat and hat while you enjoy the services inside. For the office (and in the vestibule of someone's house), it is also a place to remove your wet, dirty footwear and change into "indoor" shoes or slippers. This way, you don't track mud, dirt and grime across all the floors; again, quite practical, and luckily I knew to pack a pair of dress shoes in my backpack so I could conform to the local custom.
We'll skip the details of the actual work portion of the day. Work is work, after all, The only interesting item was the exchange I had with the folks I work with about the various options for the commute. When I told them I made the transfer at Kievskaya, they all looked a little shocked and asked me for my impressions. IK5 to the rescue - "In Kievskaya THERE WERE PEOPLE!" And they were duly impressed.

Luckily they told me where to wait for the shuttle bus from the IBM Building back to the metro, and from that I was able to determine where to wait for the shuttle bus the next (and most every other) day.

Looks like this note is lengthy enough, so I sign off here for now. I promise the next few entries won't drag for quite so long (especially since I don't have quite as many notes and I'm not sure how much I am going to recall once I actually get down to composing the next entry).

End of the third entry.